Amber Resin Flower
anyone doing crafts with resin?
i am starting on resin, and i would like to make little charms or pendants with miniature collages inside them. but how do i get the liquid gloss or resin to 'become' a certain shape (since they are liquid before cured), without having to use bottlecaps or whatsoever to hold the resin? like, if i were to use molds to cast round or square shapes, how do i get the resin out from the molds after it cures?
another question: is it possible if i put a flower or plant (that's not dried up yet) into resin to preserve it like amber? or even an insect??
i would like to know more about resin, and would appreciate it more if you don't mind explaining instead of giving me a link on resins! thank you!
Hello, i just went out this week to hobby lobby and purchased $50 worth resin making stuff. i attached a doc that i pulled from internet, i hope it helps. from what i understand, you can use almost anything as long as you use a release agent. candy molds? em me back and let me know how things go.
Casting resin's curing process is caused when heat is generated by the chemical reaction that takes place when catalyst is added to casting resin. Keep this in mind when reading through this bulletin and working with Castin'Craft Casting Resin.
Casting Resin is sensitive to environmental conditions like humidity, heat and cold. If the room your working in is below 65 degrees F, it will slow down the curing; if the room is over 75 degrees F, it will accelerate the curing and can cause yellowing and/or cracking. Humidity can cause cloudiness in your casting. Casting resin curing is also affected by the type of mold, the amount of catalyst and additives like pigments, dyes and Surface Curing Agent.
An important thing to remember with casting resin is the thicker the layer, less catalyst is needed; the thinner the layer, more catalyst is needed. The label recipe is very conservative in the drops of catalyst to be added.
Molds:
The best molds are made from HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene plastic). Using molds made of HDPE result in the clearest castings. Tupperware and Rubber Maid containers are made from HDPE. The ratio of catalyst verses casting resin shown on the label has been formulated for these types of molds. Another advantage to using these types of molds is that no mold release agent is required.
Latex or rubber mold compounds, RTV compounds, Silicone and Polysulfide compound molds bring their own set of advantages and disadvantages. A mold release agent is not needed with these types of molds as they are very flexible. The biggest disadvantage to flexible molds is that castings come out tacky and wavy because heat from the resin when curing dissipates quickly through the rubber molds. There are two methods you can use to help the curing process. Either increase the heat in the area the casting is curing in or increase the catalyst to intensify the chemical heat. To heat the area the casting project is in, you can use a regular oven, making sure you keep the temperature below 100 degrees F, or you can build a light bulb oven using a cardboard box and a light fixture with a 60 to 100 watt light bulb (no higher due to fire risk). After pouring your castings, place them in the oven for at least 12 hours. If the casting is still sticky, return it to the oven until dry. Another way to aid the curing process is to increase your catalyst amount to one or two per fluid ounce of resin depending on the thickness of the casting. Experiment to get the best results.
Glass & Metal Molds: When using glass or metal molds, a mold release agent is necessary. Use a commercial mold release agent like P.V.A. (Poly Vinyl Acetate) mold release and follow the directions on the container or use Pam cooking spray applied to a paper towel and wipe inside the mold. Another simple mold release is to mix 1 part liquid soap to 4 parts water. Apply to mold and allow to dry.
Plaster, Cement and any porous type Molds: These types of molds need to be lightly sealed with paste wax. The amount of catalyst should also be reduced due to heat build up within the mold.
Surface Cloudiness:
There are several things that can be done when a casting has a cloudy surface. The first involves sanding with 120 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit, followed by buffing with a buffing compound or Jewelry's rouge. You can also lightly sand your casting and then finish with a solvent based clear acrylic spray. Note: Do not use Surface Curing Agent or paste wax type mold releases when attempting to achieve a clear casting. Both products contain wax which will mix into the casting resin and cloud it!
Simulating Water:
When simulating water in a vase there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Casting resin shrinks by 7% on average. This figure is affected by how much catalyst is used, the type of vase, the temperature of the room, if rocks or marbles are added, how deep the resin is poured and the diameter of the vase. To keep the shrinkage to a minimum, reduce the amount of catalyst used.
Adding Pigments & Dyes:
When using pigments & dyes, remember that the curing process will be slowed down, so add extra catalyst. A piece of clear plastic wrap stretched over the surface but not touching will help to cure the surface.
Surface Curing Agent:
Surface Curing Agent is an air dye wax which when mixed with casting resin, floats to the surface and seals of the air/humidity, resulting in a tack free surface. Note: when making a totally clear cast, surface curing agent is not recommended as it will cloud your casting, instead stretch clear plastic wrap over the surface but not touching. This will seal off the air/humidity resulting in a tack free surface.
Remember, due to the nature of casting resin, consistent results are obtained through attention to detail. Never place one of a kind objects in casting resin, because once in, it is almost impossible to remove. Always practice before doing your final piece. Start small and work up to larger items so you can become comfortable when working with casting resin.
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TIPS:
1. Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean up any spills or tools if the resin is still wet.
2. Plastic pieces you use in your collage may completely dissolve in the EL, for example it plastic rhinestones completely dissolve leaving nothing but a shiny dot in the bottom of the piece! If you want to use some hard plastic item to build your collage inside of, test an empty piece for compatibility.
3. Some papers may become transparent as the piece cures, and stuff that is printed on the backside of your paper may become visible. This can be both fun and frustrating,
4. Allow any visible PVA to dry before pouring the resin, or it will be permanently preserved and will be visible inside your collage.
5. The stubborn bubbles can be popped by passing a lit match over the top of the pieces...get fairly close but not right against the surface or the resin might flare up...even the most stubborn bubbles pop like magic when the flame gets close! The flame consumes oxygen and will pull the bubbles right out of the resin. Really stubborn bubbles can be popped with a needle. Shauna Palmer 2003.
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